Ladakh Motorcycle Diaries
“The road is the destination.”
“Manali to Leh by Royal Enfield. Passes, monasteries, and the kind of silence that rewires your brain.”
Manali Base
Old Manali
Stay in Old Manali, not Mall Road. More character, better cafes, same altitude.
Johnson's Cafe
Trout in butter garlic, apple crumble, fireplace. The best meal before a week of dal-chawal.
Manu Guesthouse
Run by a local family. ₹900/night, hot water by bucket (actually nice), mountain views.
Manali → Jispa
Rohtang Pass (3,978m)
First high altitude pass. Can be busy — start before 7am. The snow patches in July are surreal.
Deepak Tal
A small lake just before Keylong. Stop for 15 mins — glassy reflections on clear days.
Jispa Riverside Camp
Tent camps along the Bhaga river. ₹700 with dinner and breakfast.
Jispa → Sarchu
Baralacha La (4,890m)
One of the hardest passes on the route. Go slow, drink water, no rushing.
Sarchu Tent City
Basic tents at 4,290m. AMS symptoms are possible — Diamox helps. Sleep early.
Sarchu → Leh
Lachung La & Tanglang La
Two more passes above 5,000m on the same day. The road to Leh feels earned.
Acclimatisation Day
Leh Palace
Morning walk up to the 17th century palace. Views over the entire Indus valley.
Shanti Stupa
White Buddhist stupa, best at sunset. The downhill back to town is a good legs workout.
Nubra Valley & Khardung La
Khardung La (5,359m)
World's one of the highest motorable roads. Spend max 20 mins — altitude hits fast.
Hunder Sand Dunes
Double-humped Bactrian camel rides at 3,000m elevation. Odd and amazing.
Pangong Lake & Goodbye
Pangong Tso
The 3 Idiots lake. Colours shift from blue to green to turquoise as clouds move. Camp here overnight if possible.
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